Garrett McNamara surfs on record breaking wave

He said friends woke him up early and he went with them reluctantly after
feeling “beat up” from the day before.

He said he had planned to stick to driving the jet ski used to tow big-wave
surfers out far enough to catch a breaking wave.

“They talked me into getting on my board,” McNamara said. “When
I got on the board and they pulled me up with tow rope everything just felt
right, it was like magic.

“We saw it coming from way out and my lady Nicole (Macias) was on the
radio saying ‘there’s a big macker coming on the outside!’ and telling us
where to go.

“The guy tried to drive me into the first wave and I’m all ‘No, No. 2,
No. 2! There was just this monster.”

“I was totally in the moment.”

The surfer said he knew the wave was big but was not sure he had set a record
until it was made official last week at the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave
Awards in Anaheim, California.

“I really just surf for the love of it and I wasn’t looking to get the
record. I wasn’t looking to get any awards,” he said.

“One the main reasons I’m doing this is to hopefully inspire at least
one person to do what they love, to do what they are passionate about,”
McNamara said. “I am living proof you can do what you love as a career.”

SOURCE: REUTERS

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