Cheese lovers in Stilton celebrate after ban on them producing their famous product is lifted (but it has to be called something else)

  • Stilton can only officially be made in three counties

By
Lucy Buckland

Last updated at 6:14 PM on 27th December 2011

Villagers from Stilton in Cambridgeshire are celebrating after a ban on them producing their own famous cheese was lifted, but bizarrely it must be called something else.

A ‘ridiculous’ legal ruling in 1996 meant the village’s famous cheese could not be produced in Stilton as it is not in Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire.

However, a new decision means the village’s Bell Inn, which first sold the cheese, has been allowed to produce and sell it to locals again – as long as they don’t call it Stilton.

Cheese production: Liam McGivern celebrates the ban being lifted with a a special batch of Stilton cheese, although his will be called Bell Blue

Cheese production: Liam McGivern celebrates the ban being lifted with a a special batch of Stilton cheese, although his will be called Bell Blue

Landlord Liam McGivern, 60, said: ‘This is something to really celebrate. Stilton has come home.

‘It was ridiculous that up until now we couldn’t make Stilton in Stilton.

‘People would come in and ask for it and I’d have to explain we legally couldn’t make it. It was embarrassing.’

One of the pub’s owners in the 18th century, Cooper Thornhill, became the first Englishman to market the cheese.

Pride of the village: Liam McGivern will be making three or four batches a week of the blue cheese

Pride of the village: Liam McGivern will be making three or four batches a week of the blue cheese

Local folklore says that he discovered the cheese while visiting a nearby farm in 1730 and made a business arrangement granting the pub the exclusive marketing rights.

Despite being the birthplace of the blue-veined cheese, production moved away from the village in the 18th century.

Production later moved to Leicestershire, and in 1996 the Stilton Cheese Makers Association (SCMA) imposed a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) order meaning that Stilton cheese could only be produced in Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire.

However, local historian Richard Landy challenged this ruling after finding evidence that the cheese was first created in the village.

Now the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) has allowed the pub to produce the cheese, using the ingredients and techniques required, for local sale.

‘We’re going to call it Bell Blue,’ Mr McGivern added.

‘It will be Stilton cheese made identical to the SCMA’s recipe, and we’ll be making three or four batches a week.

‘It takes a day to make the cheese and then it has to mature for three and a half months.

‘We feel it’s worth the wait.’

The pub has already produced its first batch, and a special launch date has been pencilled in for March 1, which is planned to be a day of celebrations.

Historian Richard Landy said: ‘The village has every right to be proud of its association with the cheese.

‘Two years ago we found evidence that the cheese was created here, but production moved to Leicestershire in the 18th century.

‘Since then we’ve been applying to get Stilton in the PDO and finally DEFRA have come to agreement.

‘It’s a great day for the village and one that’s been a long time coming.’

 

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The legal system comes up trumps again!
Surely the village where it was first produced should be the only place allowed to produce it???

“as it is not in Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire.”
Is anywhere in all three counties?

What a ridiculous situation. I love Stilton cheese but having read about Bell Blue i hope that becomes readily available then i will switch to that.

totally stupid… that the village of Stilton cannot be allowed to produce cheese and call it Stilton Cheese…

Sorry to be thick — and this is to be sold only at the one pub in the one village? Not a commercial threat to the Stiltonists elsewhere, seems to me.

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