Australia’s surfers mourn disappearing east coast beaches as currents sweep sand out to sea

Asked whether the beaches will ever return to their former state, Rodger
Tomlinson, one of Australia’s leading experts on coastal erosion, said
simply: “We don’t know.”

The rapid disappearance of the sand has puzzled scientists, who are still
trying to gauge its varying causes and are examining whether – and to what
extent – the beaches will ever be naturally restored by currents bringing
new deposits of sand from elsewhere.

The most likely culprit, they believe, is a change in weather conditions, with
increasingly frequent storms caused by La Nina, a cyclical cooling in ocean
temperatures that seems to be recurring more frequently.

In the past 18 months, Australia
has endured one of the fiercest La Nina events in history – leading to its
wettest two-year period since instrumental recording began in the 1880s, and
causing devastating floods across large areas inland.

Along the coast, powerful storms and strong tides have swept away the sand,
while changes in wave direction have dragged it offshore. As a result there
is a new threat to coastal properties, with erosion of cliffs accelerated
not because of rising tides – the ocean at Kingscliff only has a tidal
variation of about five feet – but because the beach that dissipated the
power of the waves has been diminished as the sand has gone.

Scientists say it could take a decade or more for these beaches to be
naturally restored – if, indeed, they ever are.

“This is a new situation for us – the sand is all gone,” said
Richard Adams, who runs a holiday park overlooking what used to be the beach
at Kingscliff, 50 miles south of Brisbane. “This was all thick fluffy
white sand, not this white water you can see now. It used to be one of the
best beaches in Australia.”

Some 80 per cent of Australians live on or near to the coast, and much of
development near the edge of the ocean occurred during a period of
relatively mild weather towards the end of the last century.

“We had pretty calm weather throughout the last three decades – now we
are moving back into an era of stormy conditions, especially with La Nina,”
Prof Tomlinson said. “The erosion seems to be triggered by reasonably
sized storms and very subtle shifts in wave direction.

“We also think we are having a situation of more energetic wave
conditions, possibly caused by warmer waters offshore.”

The disappearance of the sand has worried local lifesavers, who stand trained
and ready with rescue equipment but have little or no beach to patrol.

“We’re a bunch of lifesavers who essentially can’t get on to our beach,”
said a disgruntled team member, Andrew Jones. His beach, Old Bar in northern
New South Wales, has lost 75 yards of frontage in the past 18 months. A
report commissioned by Surf Life Saving Australia, the organisation
responsible for water safety and rescue, found 63 per cent of the country’s
surf lifesaving clubs were themselves erected in “zones of potential
instability”.

At Kingscliff, where a hastily built wall has helped save the headquarters
from collapse, locals joke that they may have to turn their 90-year-old surf
club into a yacht club.

Dot Holdom, a councillor who has lived in the town for 30 years, said the only
recent increase in visitors has been from “disaster tourists” who
stop by to see the vanished beach.

“It was traumatic watching the beach go,” she said. “You’re
torn between awe at mother nature and dismay at watching something that you
love fall away. But it is not the end for the town. It has just changed.”

According to Prof Tomlinson, Australians will have to accept that they must
either “retreat” from parts of the coast, or just accept that the
beaches will increasingly disappear.

“The average person thinks the beach was there last year when they went
on their holidays, so it will be there again next year,” he said.

“Australians have not really adjusted. We still have that special
relationship to the beach; it’s our holiday destination, our economy, our
relaxation. But in the absence of proper management, we are going to see a
long term reduction in our beaches.”

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